Monday, September 19, 2011

Elephant Song

I just made myself five pancakes topped with a sliced banana, whipped avocado and a fried egg.  Some of my proudest accomplishments abroad are the most modest feats stateside.  Breakfast, it turns out, is simply a social construct where my desire for a sweaty bowl of milk and crunchy Honey Bunches of Oats with Almonds is not shared by Thais, who prefer a (admitedly delicious) steaming bowl of oily noodles and broccoli with a side of french fries and spicy ketchup.

My host home, a warm nest for my introduction to Thailand, seems to relish in challenging my independence (and breakfast routine) as a form of familial affection.  For example, last week, I walked in the rain from the main drag where the taxi lets me off to my home about half a mile away.  I had had a good day at school, and the rain pattering off my raincoat paired with one of those uncannily appropriate “shuffle” sessions on my iPod made for a pleasant walk.  When I was almost home, Mae intercepted me in a car, informing me that I was sure to get daily bloody noses as a result of rain exposure.  The crusts are even cut off my diagonally sliced sandwiches. 

I understand that the host families do not maliciously limit student autonomy.  After all, I wonder how I would treat a exchange student who chokes on pieces of wood, can’t dress herself appropriately, buys salt-flavored toothpaste by accident and climbs up mountains “for fun.” (Before I went on an 8-hour day hike with my class last Friday, crawling through dense jungle and sliding down steep mud-soaked terrain, Mae handed me an umbrella “just in case.”)

This Saturday, I will move from my host home into apartments with my friends. Just as I was starting to wallow in premature nostalgia, my host family offered a final cultural hurdle.  I had heard a rumor that we students would be performing in a talent show as a thank you to our collective host families.  What I had not heard, was that our respective “talents” were those chosen by the host families.

When I arrived home, mine showed me a wooden Thai recorder that my sister played when she was younger.  Desperate to assert competence in any circumstance within my host home, I snatched the instrument and proudly offered my repertoire of the few songs I remember from fifth grade music class.  I basked in the smattering of applause, and my family continued about their business. 

Glimpsing an opportunity to seize some self-respect, I informed Mae that I wished to dazzle the audience with an authentic Thai song.  Later, I would find out that when Thai students learn to play recorder, they learn the same “American” songs that I did.  Mae said that Fai did not have any Thai sheet music.  Unfettered in the face of this overwhelming hardship, and to determined leave my host family with a burning memory of The Little Host Daughter That Could, I marched into Thai class and asked my teacher to help me find a song. 

Today, my ajaan handed me a slip of paper with several Thai characters listed in a row.  These, she explained, were the equivalent of Thai “do, ray, mee,” notation.  Using this slip, I decoded the notes first into English, and then transcribed these into notes.  I then searched for the corresponding recorder fingerings. 

Though I still lacked a rhythm for what I was beginning to consider a stoic Thai battle hymn, I smugly played notes to Mae when I got home.  She laughed shaking her head, saying “Chan” and “deg deg,” or “elephant” and “little baby.”  It turns out, my battle hymn is actually a song Thai kindergarteners sing (at the tops of their un-tuned lungs, I discovered on YouTube) when they learn what an elephant is.  Mae, head cocked to the side and pursing her lips, told me people will think “it’s childish.”

Though my last ditch attempt to gain credibility from my host family was failing with each knot, I finally resigned all dignity when, an hour ago, Mae interrupted my practicing by handing me a hula hoop.  She told me that if I hula hoop while I play, people will like it better and not be so distracted by the embarrassingly childish song.  Since writing this original post, I have also acquired an "authentic" Thai costume in which to perform... lest someone should think I'm inauthentic whilst playing my baby song and attempting to hula hoop.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Panda Bear

I came to Thailand to experience.  The program, ISDSI, touts its "experiential" approach to learning abroad on every bit of propaganda I read before I (and graciously, my parents) decided to sign up.  I have done little but "experience" in Chiang Mai.

Since my last post, the whitened pads of my fingers hoisted my weight up a cliff. I shook eggs from the mouth of a Tilapia fish.  My vocal cords trained themselves to distinguish "falling" from "low" tones. Six classmates and I carried a faux-injured girl across a river, racing a thunderstorm and flash-flood.  I stood beneath a waterfall.  A doctor pried back my tongue and inserted a flame-sanitized mirror down my throat, searching out a bamboo sliver.  I have screamed in alternating frustration and encouragement during CrossFit workouts.  I nearly cry out of patronized frustration. I laughed at my own childishness. 

These visceral experiences are earthy and shallow.  They are easy to digest (save the bamboo, apparently).  More difficult to tease apart is the world beneath the surface. Although the word "what" entered my Thai vocabulary immediately, we only just learned the word "why." I don't mean to sound like an undergrad with a soapbox constructed from a couple 100-level Sociology course and a plane ticket (guilty), but it's true that the "culture" of a foreign society is one of the most toughest concepts to sift apart.  9/11's tenth anniversary springs this stream of thought.  I scroll through Al Jazeera's daily news and consume brittle facts that say little about what is actually happening.  This is when I feel the loneliest, though in my ignorance, I am not alone. One of my instructors at ISDSI, a woman who has been living in Thailand off-and-on for three years asked me to explain to her what, exactly, a "tiger mother" was, as she'd heard the term and read its colloquial definition, but missed its cultural significance.  Similarly, the girls I babysat this summer (too young to remember the attacks) asked me why America was nervously preparing for "another 9/11," as the date comes and goes every year. 

Today I circled my submerged feet in a hot spring as I sucked the yolk from an egg I'd boiled in the same water.  The day slipped by, submerged in the bubbling pool of "experience," oblivious of where the tourist-contaminated water flows, not to mention what's happening in war-ravaged Burma, only 70 miles to the west. I grapple with my naivete, and I grapple with my guilt.  Like 9/11, not everything comes with a tidy resolution. 

Humor presents itself as the only viable front against bewilderment.  The Onion's penetrating coverage of today's services ("9/11 Memorial Curators Decide Not To Display Swastika Formed By Twisted Girders Found At Ground Zero") comforts me more than Obama's video address on the matter.  Similarly comfortable, my host family has taken to calling me "Pandah Beaar," after my dangerous run-in with the bamboo shoot.  Feels like home.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Thousands of Miles from Seattle, Still Sleepless

In Chiang Mai, I am the proverbial information sponge. For example, right now I am learning that four cups of even acrid instant coffee will keep me up all night. Somehow, this familiar experience fails to summon nostalgia. So far, I have listened to three “Fresh Airs” and a “Sound Opinions” (actually, I thought BeyoncĂ©’s new album was a “buy it,” Greg). Listening to podcasts feels like cheating, or maybe continent-jumping.If I spent four and a half hours today making Thai vocabulary flash cards (hence the over-caffination) to hasten my immersion in a world where I can’t even create a complex enough sentence to ask to go to the bathroom, then it seems so wrong to hear David Bean Cooley explain Standard and Poor’s rating break-down or Terry Gross review Jeff Bridge’s release (actually, Terry, that sounds awful).


Cheating or not, I feel great. I could simply tally all the good things happening right now to assess myself as happy, but it’s bigger than that. You know those rare moments when you hear a clichĂ©, and for the first time, you understand the truth behind it? That happened to me at this Ancient Eastern Medicine Expo I attended with Mae. She and her colleagues at the public health department ran a booth while I meandered through the displays and exhibitions. Between the flashier “barbeque massage” stand (where I saw a masseuse using an accelerant to light his client on fire with his feet, and extinguishing the flame in fragrant sauce) and the delicious food samples, I walked into a small informational booth on the psychological healing powers of Buddhist introspection. A flowchart I had seen several times before sat on an easel representing the progression of thoughts to actions to habits to destiny. As cornball as it sounds, I stood there open-mouthed letting the brief epiphany soak in as I felt some of my habitual teeth-gnashing unclench.
Although schools chalk up study abroad as a chance to learn about another culture, the most resonating foreign education occurs internally. Over the next few days, my pace of life slowed as I gave myself the chance to appreciate the sweet smell of coconut rice and the thousands of shades of grey slipping though a storm cloud as I pedaled down the dirt road. Kalamazoo College allows for hours engulfed in books about EcoFeminism and a culture of competitive scholarship, but the pace denies students time for simple existence. A high school dropout could easily emerge from their 20’s wiser than a Hornet.

My new visceral awareness is met with the explosion of sensory intake that is Thailand. On Sunday evening, Mae told me to prepare for “an adventure,” which amounted to us racing across town on her motorcycle to the Walking Street night market.

Costumed children dance barefoot on carpets; endless stands hawk jewelry, clothes, bags, hair accessories, and massages; dozens of “bohemien”-and-yet-could-afford-to-fly-here German hipsters debate the merits of heavily-patterned genie pants; food vendors offer fried eggs the size of my thumbnail; peppers synchronize my vision to pulse, frizzled electric wiring pops and fumes; solemn wats reflect the sunset’s bloody finale.; blind men slap box drums to the patter of feet; Americans and Thais, who naturally walk on opposite sides of the street, collide skin to sweaty skin…

For now, I plan to drink in Chiang Mai as an outsider before I begin to latch onto the language and culture, and real life sets in.